EDITION 19
Bistro Penny:
Cooking with Fire in Newcastle East
A career that spans St John in London, Rockpool, Bistro Moncur and Scotties would be enough for most chefs. For Joel Humphreys, it was preparation. Bistro Penny, his first restaurant under his own name, opened quietly on Bolton Street in Newcastle’s East End, and earned a Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide chef’s hat in the process.
The name belongs to his daughter, Penelope Maye. It’s a detail that says something about what Humphreys was after: something personal, rooted, and worth building carefully.
The timing, says Humphreys, felt right for both he and long-time collaborator Nic Wong, and the location sealed it. “I love the East End of Newcastle, the community here is incredible. To be able to open our first restaurant in this area was a huge part of it.” The site shaped the vision from the outset. A former bank on one of the East End’s most distinctly European-feeling streets, it pointed unmistakably in one direction: French. Designer Bianca Isgro of Studio Isgro translated that instinct into a room that balances warmth with theatre. The wood grill sits at the front of the space, a deliberate choice.
“A big part of the design was bringing the wood grill to the front of the room, so people immediately understood what the offering was,” says Humphreys. “The smell of the fire and the theatre of the open kitchen were such an important part of the overall experience and design.” The grill itself was designed and built by Shaun from Newy Fab, and holds one detail Humphreys is particularly proud of: a custom axe holder, made for an axe his father crafted for him. Craftsmanship, fire cooking, and family, all in one piece.
The smell of the fire and the theatre of the open kitchen were such an important part of the overall experience and design.
Running the room alongside Humphreys is Wong, of Lucky Prawn fame, whose eye for atmosphere and instinct for hospitality give Bistro Penny a consistency that goes beyond what’s on the plate. “There’s a real trust and understanding between us,” says Humphreys. “It’s there in the atmosphere, the service and the way the whole restaurant flows.”
The menu is roughly sixty percent bistro classics, executed with the precision of a chef who has spent decades refining his understanding of French cooking. Beef tartare arrives with crisp potato hash browns, a dish Humphreys has always loved and wanted to do his own way. Chicken liver parfait is balanced by brandied prunes, their sweetness and acidity cutting through the richness. Grilled scallops come with a chicken-fat béarnaise, smoky and savoury against the sweetness of the shellfish. Duck à l’orange: nostalgic, classic, and when done right, entirely its own argument.
One of the more pleasant surprises since opening has been the reception to offal. “It makes me happy because it shows people are open to trying those more traditional, honest cuts when they’re handled properly and cooked with care,” says Humphreys.
I love the East End of Newcastle, the community here is incredible. To be able to open our first restaurant in this area was a huge part of it.
The drinks program is in the hands of Florence Diffey, whose list leans toward interesting regions and smaller producers. The goal, says Humphreys, is a list that feels as considered as the food: something that surprises without intimidating.
Humphreys grew up in a small town in New Zealand, built a career across some of the world’s great kitchens, and chose Newcastle deliberately. “It’s got an incredible food culture, but also a strong sense of community and lifestyle,” he says. The next chapter is already taking shape. Upstairs is being renovated to launch a private dining room and function space, offering something more intimate and tailored while staying true to what happens downstairs. A second restaurant is also on the horizon. For now, the focus remains on getting this space right and continuing to evolve Bistro Penny day to day.
The smell of woodsmoke, the warmth of the grill, the hum of a full room: there aren’t many better places to be on a winter’s evening in Newcastle.
Location
Bistro Penny is located at 8–10 Bolton Street, in a restored sandstone bank building in the heart of the East End.
What makes Bistro Penny special?
Joel Humphreys’ first restaurant under his own name brings serious French bistro cooking to Newcastle’s East End: live-fire techniques centred on a custom wood grill, a menu of reimagined classics, and a drinks list built around interesting regions and smaller producers.
Must try?
The beef tartare: rich, raw, and served with crisp potato hash browns instead of the usual accompaniment. Hot and crunchy against cold and silky. A bistro classic done on their own terms.